MOUNTAINEERING

Terrestrial Adventure - Mountaineering in Nepal

 Nepal is known for the highest mountain range in the world and bears 8 of the highest mountain in the world. Nepal has proved to be irrestiable for the world's bravest adventurers. It all began with the scaling of Mt. Everest by Edmund Hillary and is Sherpa Colleague Tenzing Norgay, in 1953.

Of the countless number of summits withi nepal, a little over 100 are open to foreigners for a fee. However,  18  of the so-called ''trekkin peaks" (in the 5,000-6,000 m range) can b! climbed  for  a lesser  fee.  Although  by Himalayan standards, these are considered minor peaks, they nonetheless provide snow and ice-climbing, and are technically quite challenging.  Fees  or (royalties)  depend on the altitude of the peak,

Climbing gears ranging  from  tents  to rope or crampons, can be bought or rented in  Kathmandu.Many of  the mountaineering/trekking  companies  also offer "moutaineering" packages, where they provide all gear, food, transportation to-and-fro, Sherpa guides, and porter services, etc.

They also arrange insurance coverages. It is best to shop around for agencies that have good experience and a good track record in this area, and only then plan your mountaineering trip.

Climbing Permit

All moutaineering teams desirous of obtaining a permit must submit an application to the Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation. Enclosed therein must be a recommendation  letter by the concerned government, or by the Mountaineering Association of the applicant's home country recognized byt te International Mountaineering Association, or a recommendation by the Embassy of the home country in Nepal. The application must be submitted  about 4 months prior  to the proposed expedition.                           

There are 18 peaks in the range of 6,500 m and  below  open  for Alpine  trekking under  the  NMA (Nepal Mountaineering Association). It should be noted that in most cases the climbing of these  peaks   require experience. Detailed information and application for climbing permits are available from Office of the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal.

Every mountaineering team, while submitting an application to the Mountaineering section of the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Avation for a permit, must submit a route map. The map must include the caravan route and the expedition route.
     
Payment of Climbing Permit Fee
                  

The leader  of the  expedition  team  is required to pay the full amount of climbing permit  within  two  months of the  date  of climbing. In case of failure to pay up within this period,  permission may be annulled.

The  climbing  permit fee  must  be paid directly to the Mountaineering Section the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation either by bank draft or by bank transfer to Nepal  Rashtra  Bank payable in convertible foreign currency.

Equipment for Expedition

His Majesty's Government may provide the following facilities  to  any mountaineering team  that  has obtained a permit for mountaineering expedition:

  • To import, or use temporarily during the expedition, such number of walkie- talkies not exceeding 12 and 2 sets of wireless  having  the   capacity  to communicate  between the base camp and the nearest police station or the place where means of telecommunications is available, on the condition that such sets shall be taken home at the end of the expeditions.
  • Partial extemtion of customs duty on the goods and materials imported for the expedition

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness, also known as Acute Mountain sickness (AMS), if not treated when symptoms first appear, can cause death. AMS is the effect of altitude on those who ascend too rapidly  to elevations  of 3,000 m or above. Early mountain sickness manifests itself as headache, loss of appetite and sleeplessness. Being young, strong and fit doesn't necessarily help.  Medicine is no substitute for hurried descent or evacuation to lower altitude. If a doctor is available, he may give medicine and oxygen. However, the patient  must be brought to the lower altitude even if given treatment. If you travel in Khumbu region, you can contact hospitals at Khunde and Pheriche and if you travel to Manang, you can contact Manang  hospital. Doctors are available  all through  the trekking season.

Mountaineering Regulations

The royalty  and  the  size  of  the Expedition Team:
  • More than   one  team   may  be permitted to climb  Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by a separate route each in one season.
  • The Climbing Permit Fee must be paid which will include 7 members. Additional fees has to be paid for each of the additional member. The fee will include the trekking fee of the team members. The team will be granted a three-months visa. Additional fee will have to be paid by the team willing to scale Mt. Everest by the normal southeast ridge route.
  • In all regions  including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to  7  members  for  the   additional royalty.
  • The team already permitted to scale Mt.  Everest  will have to pay additional charges  if it  intends  to change  the ascent route. It will have to pay an additional fees  if it intends to  change  the   ascent  route to normal south-east ridge route. 
  • For peaks other than  Mt.  Everest, the  team   will   have  to   pay   an additional 25% of the Climbing Permit fees in US dollars to change  the  ascent route.
  • The  expedition    team    must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send  back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective destinations.  The  Ministry  of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch  of the garbage  from Nepal.

The Ministry of Tourism  &  Civil Aviation,  Mountaineering  Section,  has opened  up  133 himalayan peaks  ranging  from  6,500 metres  to 8,848  metres  (Mt. Everest)  for  foreign  or joint expeditions.

Likewise, The  Nepal  Mountaineering Association (NMA) offers  18  Himalayan Peaks for Alpine trekking.                 ·












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